This review is on the Miniature Aircraft X-cell Fury. What my intentions are for this review is go through the building process of this kit. I plan on detailing what I did "day by day". I will also include the approximate time it took me to do these steps. Remember that I have built many X-cells and so if your just starting out that it will probably take you a bit longer. I am not planning to do this review in super detail but will cover just about every thing and some hints and tips through out this review. You will find some important information highlighted in red.
Overall I'm very pleased with this kit. Only ran in to a few minor things. I'm not sure I would call them problems because they are defiantly fixable and very minor.
I purchased the fury 60 expert. The fury will come in 4 flavors for the moment. I do hear that they might be coming out with more options later. This kit has been out now for about a month and I was just now able to get mine. There is a large pre-order demand for this kit already. If things go like they are this will be one popular kit. After building it I can see why. Its very straight forward and compared to other kits a lot less expensive. That will defiantly help make this kit "HOT"!. Any ways, the fury will come in 4 flavors as stated above. 50 basic, 60 basic, 50 expert, 60 expert.
NOTE: You must order either a JR version or Futaba version of the fury expert series. The kit was designed around CCPM. CCPM needs precise placement of the servos. The expert series has "servo" support plates. The kit was designed also around the more popular "standard" size servos.
The expert series will have the new split gear, carbon tail boom, metal head block, servo supports and a few other things that defiantly make the expert series worth while. But don't be fooled, the basic series will be more then enough for any flyer or style of flying you do.
On to the building of the kit!
TIME: 4 HOURS
First off before and after you open the box up.
It certainly seems that this kit is much more condensed then the other kits I have built. But after you continue building on, you will have one complete and cool helicopter.
Next you will find that the instructions manual is different and you won't find the "customary" 3 sheets of exploded view plans. The instruction book now has the exploded views incorporated into it. While this is very nice and make building a little more "detailed", I do miss the 3 sheets of exploded views. These I think can really help and look good on your building room wall<G>.
As you can see the instructions and exploded views are all together now. The only thing that bothered me a bit is if I'm a page or 2 away I would always have to "back track" pages to look at the exploded views. Not a big thing, but on the other side, the parts you needed and the exploded view to build the part all right there for you, no need to hunt on the larger sheets for them.
ROTOR HEAD ASSY.
The first thing to build is the rotor head. You will notice here that the instructions are have you build the flybar tilt assembly, but the head comes complete there. This is because if you ever need to replace any of these parts you will have instructions to do so.
The only variance I did here was leave the fly bar paddles of till close to the end of construction. I did this because I used my flybar alignment tools and paddle gages from miniature. I could have the swashplate flat and the pushrods to the flybar control rods attached. That way I could align the paddles to the rotor head, and each other at the same time.
The new fury is using a 2 piece frame set made of G-10 material. The frames will end up as wide as the main bearing blocks. Every thing is then mounted to them. The also include what is referred to as "PEM" nuts. These are like "blind nuts" as it were. They work out very well and are very strong.
In this picture you can see the "PEM" nuts installed. The left frame is built up. Eventually the left and right frames will be attached to each other with "U" channel braces between the 2 frames.
In This picture you can see the "U" channel braces and some other bracing. Pretty straight forward assembly.
Next you will build up the constant drive driven tail autorotation clutch. If you purchased the basic kits then of course you will not have this but would install the standard autorotation clutch and main gear.
Next you will be installing the constant drive unit and main shaft. Then installing the torque tube front drive.
Next comes the radio support assembly. Again pretty straight forward.
This tray now comes with double sided velcro to attach your radio equipment and also for the fuel tank. Its a pretty easy and clean way of installing you equipment. I've been using these straps for some time and small pieces of the velcro to secure wires. Works extremely well.
That's the end of my day 1. I spent about 4 hours getting to this point.
TIME: 2.5 HOURS
RIGHT SIDE FRAME
Next comes the prep of the right side frame and installation of that frame. Again pretty straight forward.
Next was added the tail rotor bellcrank. What is happening here is the tail rotor servo is mounted to the front frame set and a small pushrod comes back to the bellcrank. This in turn connects to a pushrod back to the tail rotor gear box. This bellcrank is large ball bearing supported so play should not be a problem. Only time would tell though. You can see this bellcrank in this picture.
Miniature recently has redone the "Tough Strut" landing gear. While they have always been great gear, they have been basically a big pain to build. Well... no more! The skids now slide into the struts with very little resistance. Then after they are all installed and aligned, you can "Pin" the skids in place with screws.
In this picture you can see the screws that pin the skids in place.
After the gear is installed to the frames, I took a ruler and "X" (crossed) measured from the front channel in the main frames (#115-12) to each "tip" or point of the skids. I rotated one to the angle I wanted then measured. Then rotated the other skid to that same measurement. That way I knew they were rotated equally to each other.
Next comes mounting the fan to the engine. I had to very a bit from the instructions do to the fact that the engine I wanted to use was in my X-Cell SE. My plan was to put the YS-91 4-stroke back into the se and use the YS-ST2 from it in the fury. So I put off this step of the instructions and later came back to this part. If you have your engine already just proceed as the instructions say. I also left off the lower frame assembly. This needed to be installed after the engine was in. Later in the review I went back and installed the engine, so read on.
The next part would be to install the clutch / bell housing into the frame set. If you built an X-cell before you will notice that there is a different clutch assembly now. The Clutch has a bearing block sandwiched between the clutch and another assembly.
As you can see in this picture it looks like the clutch is not up into the bell housing. However it is in the bell. It is fully supported now and then the engine will press up onto the lower "ball" pivot assembly for alignment. You will also note that now there is NO adjustments to be made. After the install of the bell housing / clutch the mesh was almost perfect. What would seem a bit tight but if you have ever built an X-Cell before the mesh will wear in perfect in about 2 flights.
You will also note that I installed the motor mounts also.
TIME: 2.5 HOURS
TOTAL 6.5 HOURS
TIME: 3.75 HOURS
As stated above I did pass for now installing the engine. I did however install the switch assembly.
I picked up with the fuel tank next. The fury uses the fuel tank and fittings off the X-Cell pro and X-Cell pro2. The fuel tank now has been drilled for the fittings. This is a first for me. This makes for a nice set up because the canopy is made to fit around the fuel pick up line. No more drilling fuel tanks in the wrong place.
NOTE: After you have the fuel tank finished make sure that there is NOTHING inside the tank and that the tank is totally airtight. What I do is put fuel line on the fittings and block off one end. blow into the other end then pinch off that line. Then sink the tank into a pot of water and check for air bubbles. This will tell you the tank is sealed.
Next you will mount the tank with the double sided tape and the provided velcro. As you can see in the above picture there is a notch cut out for the pressure line fitting.
SWASHPLATE - WASHOUT ASSEMBLY
As you can see in the above picture the swashplate have changed now. There is an "outer" ridge around the swashplate to provide frigidness.
In building the washout unit you will add little "clips" to the #106-07 pins. I really hate these. They are very hard to get on.
NOTE What has worked for me and use at your own discretion is after the pins are installed into the "3d links" (#0869), is to put a ridge of slow CA on the ends of the pins and then "kick" it will accelerator. I've never had a problem yet but use only at your own risk.
NOTE: I did find a miss print in the manual here. The instructions in (lx), step 2 seq. "B", has the correct text. But the exploded view is missing or not showing #0562-1 spacer washer on the outside of the mixing arm #0221.
TAIL ROTOR ASSEMBLY
Next is to build up the tail rotor assembly. The first part build per instructions.
While building the tail rotor pitch slider, The instructions eluded to the fact that the #0439 ball bearings are open sided and should be greased. The ball bearings in my kit were double sided so I just left them alone and installed them.
After adding the #0225 pivot pins into the #0442 pitch links, I put a bead of CA around the out side of the pins and again "Kicked" it with accelerator. Just to make sure the pins did not work out.
The rest of building the tail rotor gear box is straight forward as per the instructions. I did not run into any problems with the gear mesh. It worked out very straight forward. Actually the mesh was one of the best I have ever had with no hassles getting it that way.
TAIL BOOM ASSEMBLY
Next you will install the torque tube assembly and then add the horizontal and vertical fins.
Then after that is done you will installed the boom into the main frame assembly.
When installing the tail boom into the frames you don't want to "bind" the torque tube. If you do you will defiantly get vibrations. What I do is install the boom as far as it goes. MAKE sure that the tail box and front torque tube connectors are fully engaged into the torque tube. Then I mark the tail boom with blue tape and then bake out the boom ever so slightly 2mm-3mm.
Next you will build up the boom supports. You will have to let them dry over night if you JB Weld. (which I would recommend)
You can build them up and attach them and let them dry while they are mounted.
NOTE: While you have the JB Weld out, you will need to put the fittings into the tail rotor pushrod.
TOTAL 10.25 HOURS
TIME: 1.5 HOURS
Next part of the installation is installing the servo's, battery receiver and switch. I used the futaba 9252 digital servo's on the collective / roll / elevator cyclics. I used the GY 401 with the 9253 digital servo for tail rotor and a 9203 on the throttle.
The nice thing about the fury is its using pre drilled servo wheels that come with the futaba servo's. The hardest part is you need to make sure that the servo wheel hole is 90 degrees to the pushrods. You will also need to trim the servo wheels on one side so that they do not interfere with the ball bearing servo output support plates
In this picture I'm using an alignment tool that Gary Wright thought of. This is just one of his many contributions to the hobby. This tool is the ultimate in getting pushrods at 90 degrees to servo's. In this picture I used the 1.5mm wrench so you could see how it would work with some clarity.
Next would be building the blades if you ordered your kit with the wood blades. You can get the kits with blades, with out blades or with glass / carbon blades. I ordered mine with the 700 rotor sport 3d blades so I did not need to build the blades. Again the time does not include building blades.
Here I finally installed the flybar paddles. I did this now because I had all the servo's in and pushrods built up. This way I could make sure the swashplate was flat and level and then could level the paddles to the rotor head. For me this works out well.
Next is to set up your radio. I used my futaba 9zwc2. The pushrod lengths are so close that on the initial radio set up I had to adjust 1 pushrod 1 turn to get a 9.5, 0 -9.5 collective range. If your planning on using a hover at 1/2 stick setup then you will need to make more radio adjustments to do that. I was amazed on how easy the radio set up really was. With the servo's square and using the pre drilled servo wheels there really wasn't much to do.
TIME: 1.5 HOURS
TOTAL TIME: 11.75 HOURS
(Does not include blade building or canopy painting)
TIME: 1 HOUR
I started out going back and doing the installation of the engine and fan shroud. I followed that by the final installation of the lower frame supports. pretty straight forward. There isn't much adjustments that can be made to the engine other then the vertical up placement of the engine. The kit does come with a "gap" tool so you can set the gap between the top of the fan and the bottom of the clutch.
After the engine install I followed up with the servo support plates. These plates are ball bearing supported. The servo arm screws are replaced with pins that screw into the servo but the top of them will fit into the ball bearings in this support plate. That gives the servo no room to twist or bend. This will probably keep the servo gears from wearing out. I did these after the radio set up. This way if I needed to get the servo wheels off for any thing I could with out having to remove the support plates.
In this picture you can see the support plates and also how they are trimmed.
TIME: 1 HOUR
TOTAL TIME: 12.75 HOURS
TIME: 1.5 HOURS
Next came prepping the canopy. The canopy was extremely nice. The Gel coating was very good. I didn't notice any pin holes off hand. The center seam will need some sanding. The prepping didn't take long. The canopy was already cut out where the fuel tank holes would be. The only big thing to do was drill the 4 holes to mount the canopy to the mechanics. The way that the canopy is mounted is also nice. Back during the building of the frames, there were to double ball that were installed. the rear of the canopy will "pop" over these and then there are 2 bolts at the front to secure the canopy down.
The kit comes with some nice new style decals. Now the only thing that I'm not sure I liked is that the instructions say you can paint this canopy or just add the decals and go. But unlike other XL's there is no lean window to replace the glass if you wanted to have that "see through" look. So if you added just the decals and fly you would have any type of "wind shield". Oh well... most people paint these any ways. I did not / have not painted my canopy yet so the time is not including any painting.
After the canopy prep installed the muffler and the muffler support mounting kit. This was purchased separately. You defiantly need a soft mount of some sort for the fury. Its not recommended using 1 piece mufflers with solid mounting to the frames.
Here I installed my GV-1. Found a good place that it can stay out of the way. And yes I did tie up all the wires. I ran most of the servo wires in between the frames and out towards the front where I tied them up with velcro strips. It made for a clean installation.
After all this I went back through and made sure every thing was tight and secure.
I used some of the velcro that came with the kit and tied up the wires. If you wrap the velcro in the opposite direction then the piece for the battery or receiver you can then stick the wires right to that piece of velcro. Holds them nice.
HOURS: 1.5 HOURS
TOTAL TIME: 14.25 HOURS
The finished product. Looks nice! I have yet to get a bit more time on it as of now but I have managed to get a couple flights in. I ended up needing 1 turn of the pitch rod to track the blades and that is it. The pushrod lengths that the is suggested in the kit are really close to what is needed for a good setup. It will defiantly get you into the "ball park" as it were.
I finally got some time and fuel through my fury. For a "NON-FAI" machine this helicopter tracks like its on rails. Not that you can't set the helicopter up for contest style flying.
It rolls exceptionally well. Totally axial rolls. In flips I'm not seeing any "roll" inputs at all. It will stay flat all the way through the flip. I'm totally impressed and hooked! I guess now only time will tell how the servo's will hold up before any cross inputs show up. If they stay tight and slop free this will not happen.
The only problem that I did run into is my "T&T" start shaft. The bearing drive at the end of the shaft just fits in between the 2 main frames. The problem came in with the #1 servo (elevator) support bearing plate. The bolt closes the clutch shaft protruded a bit long through the "PEM" nut. All that was needed for me was to shorten that bolt up about 1/8 of an in so it was just "flush" with the "PEM" nut. That fixed it. So far that's was the only "after build" problem I have run into.
That was the biggest problem I found that I couldn't get by with. If you leave this the "PEM" nut / bolt will wear the metal off the start shaft and then you have metal shaving on top of the bell housing bearing. You don't want that. If that servo had been moved even 1/8 of an inch forward this would have not happened. Its nothing that can't be fixed but keep that in mind that maybe "YOUR" start shaft adapter might rub. I'm sure that not all of them will.
Hope you had a good read with this. If you have any questions feel free to email me.
Copyright © 1999 by [Helibuf's World]. All rights reserved.
Revised: 27 Aug 2003 20:33:31 -0700 .